by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
Everything comes full circle, and I’d say The Row at the Riverdale Inn is proof of that adage. In 1900, Riverside Avenue was one of most prestigious addresses in the nation. The Riverdale Inn was built in 1901, as a home (or rather a mansion) of one of Jacksonville’s tycoons. As the years wore on, the street and the neighborhood lost its elite appeal. The mansion fell into disrepair.
But artists flocked to the neighborhood, covering over the graffiti with murals and restoring old houses. Real estate got hotter and the bohemian element hung on just enough to keep the area chic, even though many of the artists were forced to move on to cheaper rentals. Fast-forward to today: you’ll find that the street and the neighborhood have regained much of its former glory, with an added dash of historical panache--something they didn’t have in 1901, since everything was new.
About four years ago, Chef Eric Waln was looking for a place to open up a restaurant. He found the property and thought it was perfect for what he wanted. Then he convinced his aunt and parents (who opened and ran a hotel in Fernandina) to come out of retirement, invest in his venture and manage the Inn.
After they spent a substantial amount to refurbish both the Inn and the dining area, it has once again become a bastion for the elite, albeit an unpretentious elite. The restaurant itself is named for “the row,” which is what the row of luxurious mansions lining Riverdale Avenue was called in the early part of the last century. It captures the 1900 flavor of Riverside beautifully, with rich maroon walls, white tablecloth settings and fresh flowers.
Many of the people heading for a symphony or theatre show downtown eat at The Row beforehand. While I was there, a group that would be going to a performance of the Lion King had just been seated. If you tell your server that you’re trying to be out by a certain time, they can ensure that you make your show with time to spare.
While all the entrées served here are over the $20 range, they are worth the cost because The Row delivers on all counts: service, atmosphere and food. One of the things about the setting that put me in my happy place was the fact that The Row doesn’t cover their white tablecloths with white paper. Many upscale eateries that experience a high volume and/or justifiably want to cut down on their use of linens have taken to placing white paper over their tablecloths. It’s a trend that I don’t love, but can understand. So, as I sat down to the table, I experienced a palpable, tactile joy when I felt cloth instead of paper.
The Row is, without a doubt, one of the best places in Jacksonville to go for a romantic meal. On a nice day you can sit on the spacious porch in the front, or you can eat more casually on the deck in the back. The two main dining areas, bisected by the hotel lobby, are classically Riverside, with cushy chairs, beautiful place settings and window vistas of the neighborhood and the trees.
Reservations are recommended, but you can always take a seat at the classy Gum Bunch Pub. Besides a decent wine list and good selection of beers, they’ve got a full bar for those who like the stronger stuff. Happy Hour is offered Monday-Friday from 5 to 7 with two-for-one draft beers, selected wine, and well brand drinks.
Perhaps the pinnacle of The Row’s entrées is their signature Chicken Marsala. It’s not the standard thin, rough-pounded chicken, but is instead served as a roasted de-boned chicken stuffed with stunningly flavorful spinach, goat cheese and pecans, then topped with an excellent marsala sauce, mushrooms and capers. I haven’t found a tastier chicken dish here in Jacksonville.
Those with a taste for tender venison should try the charbroiled venison tenderloin. It’s complemented nicely by a wholly agreeable juniper-balsamic reduction, roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus.
The Row does as well in the fish category as they do in all others. I highly recommend the pesto-crusted salmon with parmesan sour cream sauce for a richly creamy yet slightly tart salmon experience. The sunburst squash served on the side was a lightly sweet, delicious pairing for this dish.
Speaking of asparagus, the roasted asparagus starter is one way to sin and love sinning. It’s a veggie, yes, but these goat cheese and toasted hazelnut encrusted asparagus are just so good they have to be sent by the devil as a temptation.
Though I liked the taste of my pecan pie, the presentation wasn’t entirely keeping with the rest of the meal or the setting. It looked a little sad sitting there on the plate, with a slightly drooping crust. I searched in vain for the warm bourbon hard sauce that was supposed to be served with it and finally concluded that it may have been poured atop the slice before it got to my table.
Despite a rather disappointing end to a fabulous meal, I will say that The Row is a top contender and my pick for the most romantic restaurant in Jacksonville. From my own experiences and accounts from others, The Row always feels intimate and doesn’t have noise issues. With sexy starters and even sexier entrées, it’s simply sensational for a special evening out.
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